Barsur – Chronicles in stone

By on Jan 9, 2018 in Travel

Though weathered, and in places ravaged over the centuries, Barsur allows for a peek into a few glorious vestiges of the former capital of Bastar. of the successions of kingdoms and empires that dominated the region, this temple town is most influenced by the rich legacy of the Nagvanshi dynasty, under whom a few important structures were constructed here.

Barsur is a rare remnant of the erstwhile stronghold of the Nagavanshi who held sway over the region as early as AD 840. The small town is situated on the banks of the Indravati River and legends boast that it once had 147 temples and an equal number of ponds. Only four temples and a few atmospheric ruins remain.


Ganesha Temple

A large compound encompasses many scattered ruins, but two Erotic carvings on the facade of Chandraditya Temple.

Massive stone Ganesha statues have been given the honour of being enclosed in a large railed shelter. These were said to be part of a larger temple. now lost of ages.

Time: 10am-5pm

Pedamma Temple

Walk behind the Ganesha Temple to this ancient stone shrine dedicated to pedamma, Who is said to be even older than Danteswari Devi. The temple is often closed so ask for the person in charge at the Ganesha Temple.

Time: 10am-5pm; women not allowed.

Mama-Bhanja Temple

This unique temple was intended to be a Vishnu temple but remained without a deity as the king (mama) and his nephew (bhanja) fought decided to make a temple without the king’s permission. Eventually. the king was felled with a blow to his head and the guilt-ridden nephew never completed the temple. A small stone head sits high on the sculptured dome of the temple-a rather morbid tribute to the monarch.

Time: 10am-5pm

Solah Khamba Temple

The ruins of 16-pillared temple lie beautiful behind the Mama-Bhanja temple. This can be reached via a small road that leads up from the right of the Mama-Bhanja Temple, crossing a lotus-filled lake on the right.

Battisa Shiva Temple

A sprawling and quite beautiful temple featuring 32 pillars, a flat roof and twin Shiva shrines.

Time: 10am-5pm

Chandraditya or Market Temple

Built by a feudatory chief called Mahamandalesvara Chandraditya, the temple lies at the edge of a lake. The temple compound is also the venue for a weekly Saturday haat of Barsur, thus giving it the name Market Temple. The backdrop of low hills, inhabited by the Abhuj Marias, and the placed lake make this one of the most picturesque settings in town. Erotic figurines and sculptures occupy the outer walls of the temple. Inside, a Nandi faces a damaged idol of mahishasuramardini( another name of Danteshwari).

Time: 10am-5pm

Quick Facts

Getting There

Closest access is from Jagdalpur(84km). Keep a Raipur taxi throughout(Rs2250/day for 250km).

Drive time: 1 hr 30mins one way from Jagdalpur.

Route: Follow NH 16 to Geedam, turn right to SH5 for Barsur. combine a trip here with Dantewada.

When to visit

During local festivals (Jan – Mar) or the winter months of oct-dec.

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